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April 2015

Something finally clicked in April and this whole Peace Corps thing started to come together. We broke the 3 month streak of workshops, and it was a month where everything started to feel normal (whatever that means these days) Maybe it is the start of the first project, or just being around for the past 6 months, but people are finally starting to reach out and talk to me about project ideas which is a really amazing feeling. I finally feel like I have a life here rather than that I am just here til the next training or vacation. Or maybe since we’re no longer melting 24/7 as winter is approaching we are finally starting to feel (slightly) sane. Or maybe its seeing all of the Bots16’s accepting their invitations and all of their questions and realizing how crazy the last year of our lives have been. But something is finally starting to click, and for that, I am thankful.

  • Easter weekend. We have been waiting for Easter weekend for months – 4 day weekend camping trip up north at Tsodilo Hills. As we have learned to adapt, classic Peace Corps style, Easter weekend was an unusual rainy, cool mess. After debating back and forth with our disappointment of not going and our lack of desire to be soaking wet and cold in tents for a few days, we decided to cancel our camping trip and spend the weekend in Maun. Everyone you talk to will ask the same thing “have you been to Maun? Ah you must go!” which has left me very curious as to what all the hype is about, and the time finally came. Maun is different from your normal village – its bigger, its more spread out, it is the gateway to the Okavango Delta, village life but also expats, pilots, and tourists. There are plenty of opportunities for delicious food, laying by a pool and relaxing or other water activities. We enjoyed a relaxing weekend with cheeseburgers, braiis, swim spots on the Delta, pool time and much needed time with girlfriends.

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  • The time I tried to kill a chicken (part 1) For some months, a friend of mine at the clinic has been inviting me to her lands and offering to teach me how to kill a chicken but every weekend for some reason or another, it never works out. Finally, our schedules worked out and we were able to spend a day at the lands. In my village, I am always hearing about people going to “the lands”; my landlady will disappear for days at a time there, the kids will miss school to spend time there, and mosadi mogolo (old women) will insist I hop in their donkey carts and help them at the lands. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect of the lands but it was everything and nothing I expected. There is a frustrating stereotype (not true of all, but certainly of some) of people being lazy and not working at their jobs (mostly government employees) which makes life as a PCV incredibly frustrating when no one wants to work with you. But perhaps the reason for this, which we have been overlooking for so much time, is that people are so exhausted from working the lands that they don’t perform at their jobs. Anyways, our day at the lands started at KB’s house where we fed the chickens and caught the chosen one. I got my first ride on a donkey cart as we rode through the bush in Ramokgonami out to Mosimo to go to the lands. The lands we went to were shared by her family, and left messy by her nieces and nephews so we started by collecting water and doing all the dishes that had been left there for who knows how long. There is not running water at the lands, but rather large holding containers; I was amazed at how little water she used to clean and how effective it was. In classic Botswana style, we breaked for tea and bread before continuing our day. We walked through the fields, as she told me about this years poor harvest season and arrived at the goat/sheep krawl where she chased around goats to milk to have fresh milk at the house. I yelled with the goats as they ran circles around me and played with the baby goats as she did the hard work. Noticing there were not nearly as many goats/sheep as there should be, she ran around the lands catching the ones that had gotten loose and collecting them to go back to the krawl. On our way back to the house at the lands, we collected maize and watermelons, and covered baby watermelons with weeds so the birds would stop damaging the crops. The time finally came for the chicken, and I was nervous and feeling horrible about the whole thing. But everytime I felt guilty about killing a chicken, I thought about everyone here who has told me “if you can’t kill it, you shouldn’t eat it” and for all the chickfila nuggies I’ve eaten in my lifetime(RIP), I figured I needed to kill a chicken to justify my forever love for nuggies…. Or maybe I would stop craving them so much for some time. KB helped me get into position with the wings tucked in one another, my feet on the wings and feet, and the knife in my hand. I had imagined killing a chicken would be a smooth slash of the knife across the neck and it would be over. But I was so wrong. After a few shaky handed attempts at slashing the neck and fighting back tears, I handed the knife over to KB who finished what I started. So much sawing was involved that I was not prepared for. She says next time we’ll use an axe! We boiled water and stuck the body in and picked the feathers. I helped hold the chicken as she used the knife to dismantle it, and KB showed me all the body parts of the chicken and what they eat and what they don’t. I was amazed at how very little of the chicken goes unused. We spent the afternoon eating and talking, and by the time I got home I was absolutely exhausted. I was so amazed and humbled by what a hardworking, wonderful and kind person she is to take me out there and spend the time to teach and explain to me that part of their life. Sadly, we had told plenty of people at the clinic and in the village I would be killing a chicken so telling everyone I couldn’t do it was a shame, but also hilarious as everyone knew I wouldn’t be able to but still offered to take me so I could try again.
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Kebaneetse and the chosen one

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  • Wedding! One of the lovely Bots14’s (the group that left the year before mine) got married and I was fortunate enough to be able to join them in the celebration of their love! The day of the wedding was cloudy and cool, beautiful weather! We spent the morning among PCV’s as Stephanie got ready for the wedding. We spent the afternoon with her husbands, Patrick, family and friends as well as her parents. We ate so much delicious wedding food and time all together. It’s amazing watching two people from completely different worlds come together in marriage. Everyone in my village that knew I was going to a wedding of an American and a Motswana was thrilled and I came back to everyone requesting to see the photos from the weekend.
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The beautiful couple! Cheers!

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  • GRS! But the real highlight of April has been starting my first official project as a Peace Corps Volunteer! April 21st, Matoteng and I started Grass Root Soccer! Our goal is to put all 100-something standard 7 students at Ramokgonami Primary through GRS by the end of the year. There are 3 classes of about 36 kids each, which is more students than we ideally wanted but ya gotta learn to roll with it. The 7A students are as awkward as your average 13 year olds as they came running to the field after class to be greeted by the crazy eager lekgoa with a soccer ball. The beginning of each practice starts with an activity called “Take A Stand” in which you read various statements about HIV to the kids and they take a stand with their eyes closed and agree or disagree with the statement. The first practice began with one about soccer where they agreed and disagreed with eachother on their favorite Botswana and international soccer teams. Then we continued onto “HIV is a big problem in my community” and all 40 of the kids raised their hands to their heads to agree. That hit hard. There are a lot of people I have talked to in my village that say malaria is not a big deal; we are not far enough north, and had a total of 2 nonfatal malaria cases last year. But there are also people that say HIV, multiple partners, etc. is not a big deal, which is incredibly alarming. But then to have all 40 of these awkward preteens agree that HIV is a big problem in Ramokgonami was amazing. They are at an age where they have most likely all known someone that has lost their life to HIV/AIDS at some point, and they also are at the age where they were born before PMTCT (Prevention of Mother To Child Transmission) was an intervention all HIV+ mothers were put on treatment to prevent transmission so they could be + themselves or very likely have classmates that are. They are also at an age where they are receiving sex ed in schools and about to hit puberty if it hasn’t started already. These kids are at such an influential age, these kids are our future. And its when it truly hit me how important it is to provide these kids with the information to protect themselves, and empower them, especially the girls, to stand up for themselves when it comes to their sexual health. The first practice also includes a pre-challenge of questions to check what they know the first practice and again at the last practice. It shocked me how few of the kids believed there was anything they could do to help stop the spread of HIV in their community. But perhaps, slowly they will realize they are the future and their life choices can make a difference. The kids were a little slow to warm up and talk, but the as the practices go on more kids have begun to speak out and its wonderful. On the 2nd practice when the kids were being extra shy, not wanting to say sex or condom, I brought them all in a circle and on the count of 3 we all shouted “PENIS!” “SEX!” “VAGINA!” “CONDOM!” “HIV!” to get them comfortable saying these words. They officially thought I was crazy after that. But they also are warming up to the idea of being oayy with saying these words. I look forward to Tuesday and Thursday afternoons with these kids so much, and am so excited to continue to get to know them and watch them grow over my next year and a half (WEIRD. I’ve started saying the next year and a half vs saying two years. TIME IS FLYING)
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Practice 1 “Find the Ball” – a game that teaches kids that you cannot tell someone’s HIV status just by looking at them

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“Risk Field” – Avoiding risks such as unprotected sex, multiple partners, sex & alcohol and older partners by navigating their way through cones with the ball to avoid getting HIV!

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Flat Stanley came all the way from Baltimore to play soccer and learn about HIV!


In other news, Peo turned 6 months old and she is as wild as ever! I cannot even express how thankful I am to have her – to run around and celebrate the good days and to snuggle on the bad days. Less than 40 days til dad gets to Botswana! I cry literally every time I think about how excited I am to see him. I went the entire month of April without shaving my armpits. Why? Why not? I don’t really know. It felt right. Well it felt so wrong it felt right. I’ve binged on all the nutella in my house (and had my stock replenished) and I am in serious need. Hook a sister up.

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“Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes, in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself.” Life is good. Ke itumetse.

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Reclaiming Baltimore in the Midst of Riots: As Told by a Black Native

Allison Torsani

Maryland is a small, Mid-Altantic coastal state that envelops our nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. If you’re not from the east coast, you might not have any concept of where this state lies on the map. I happen to come from the middle of the state, from a great town called Bowie—no, not like the musician. More like “Boo-ie.”

That means that, for me and others from the area, frequenting Baltimore, Annapolis, and D.C. was not unusual. We tend to feel a sort of ownership over all these familiar towns.

Down here in Miami, I am proud to tell people about where I’m from. I am a proud Marylander. But here’s the thing: I usually tell Miamians that I’m from the D.C. area, because most people down here don’t know what or where Maryland is. (Nope, not the Midwest. Try again!).

Rioting Sets Us Up for Failure

But after today…

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March 2015

Literally every month I say to myself “holy shit, how is it (insert month) already!?” and March was no different. March came and went much faster than the painfully slow February. I’m on my 3rd month straight of back and forth trainings and village time, and it’s been (fun but) exhausting. I love that we have had so many opportunities to receive trainings but what good are all of these trainings when we keep getting yanked out of our villages to go to them? I am so ready to settle down and start some Peace Corpsy goodness in my village! (I know between May and November I’ll be taking it back but for now)

The beginning of March was our amaaaaazing India trip, followed by a week or so of post-vacation blues settling back into Rams, and going around to see my friends in the village to remind them I’m still here since they are constantly saying “ah Masa, you’re still here?” when I return from a training. Which is frustrating, but oh well.

And then we’re off again to another training: GRASSROOT SOCCER! (checkout their website: http://www.grassrootsoccer.org) Peace Corps has partnered with Grassroot Soccer to educate, inspire, and mobilize young people around the world to stop the spread of HIV. Grassroot Soccer’s ‘Skillz’ curriculum focuses on building basic life skills that help boys and girls adopt healthy behaviors and live risk-free.Through a series of interactive activities and discussions students gain a tangible understanding of HIV and AIDS and get a chance to practice the skills necessary for sustainable behavior change. Key curricular topics include making healthy decisions, avoiding risks, building support networks, reducing stigma and discrimination, increasing knowledge about testing and treatment, addressing gender issues, and assessing values. Skillz is a culture, mindset, and toolkit for educators to use when teaching young people 12-18 about HIV and AIDS and life skills. Skillz creates simple but powerful connections between soccer (sport) and life skills. The ‘Skillz’ approach helps young people engage in relevant and important discussions about life, take small steps to achieve their goals, are resilient when faced with challenges, and protect themselves and others from HIV and AIDS.

GRS was a 4-day training in Kanye, Botswana for 36 PCV’s and 31 CP’s with 4 facilitators for the training from GRS, as well as our PC Bots GRS folks. We spent the first 2 days of the training going through the entire 11 session curriculum, and the last 2 days doing teachbacks where we worked in groups with our counterparts to practice facilitating sessions and getting feedback. I have really been looking forward to this training since getting to Rams and seeing that the youth in the village have nothing to do after school. GRS provides an opportunity to get to know the youth in my village more, to get out and active after school, and also reinforces the HIV messages they have been receiving for years in a different setting. My counterpart is the health care assistant at our clinic, and one of my good friends in the village. The workshop was a great opportunity for us to strengthen our professional relationship and create a game plan for implementation. After arriving back in the village to work Monday, we presented what our workshop was on and his first question to me was “when are we starting!?” and I am SO excited. I spent the week editing the PC GRS letter to deliver to the Primary School school head, meetings with the school head, deputy head, guidance & counseling teachers and sports & culture teacher to approve GRS at the school. And when the kids come back from break, we’ll identify our students and start! I absolutely cannot wait.

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HIV Limbo with my counterpart, Matoteng!

struggle bus GRS

obvi I’m still not coordinated. or a soccer player. YOBO.

Photo credz: Anne

But the best thing that happened this month is finding out my old man is coming to visit in June! I literally almost peed my pants with excitement.

Other March highlights: half marathon training began. Vic Falls here we go! To end March properly, I am procrastinating working on my VRF (Volunteer Reporting Form) by blogging. #adhdprobz

We have a 4 day weekend for Easter, so we are heading up north to Tsodilo Hills with a bunch of PCV’s to go camping. I am so excited!

Until next time my friends.

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Grab your passport and my hand….. INDIA!

As lockdown was coming to an end, one of my genius friends began looking up cheap flights for our first Peace Corps vacation and found flights to Mumbai and we all had the same reaction…. “why not!?” so a few weeks later, there we were leaving for Mumbai! I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from our trip, but it was fantastic and I am forever grateful I was able to go.

Where to start!?

A little bit about Mumbai: Mumbai lies on the west coast of India and is the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra – it is the most populous city in India, and the most populous metropolitan area in India, with an estimated population of 18.4 million people. So. Many. People.

Saturday. We woke up early Saturday and our dear friend Sylvester picked us up from Gabs/Otse and we drove to Johannesburg. We had cuddle puddles, sang the Sound of Music and ate all the McDonalds. 9 PCV’s and one swanky hotel in Joburg.

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Sunday. We had an early flight out of Joburg, so obviously we started our day with cheeseburgers at Mugg & Bean at OR Tambo. The flight to UAE was about 8hrs, a brief layover in Abu Dhabi and off to Mumbai!

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Monday. We arrived in Mumbai around 3am so we decided to camp out in the airport until the sun came out to play. We got to our hostel and met our new friend joining our group for the week. We enjoyed some quality time with the other American’s we met. We were all starving so we decided to start walking around the city in search of food and to explore. If you know me, you know I am a pain in the ass picky eater and had actually never even tried Indian food until arriving in Botswana. But what I had tried I enjoyed, so I was excited to try all the foods! I barely knew what anything was when looking at the menus so I was taking suggestions and “surprise me”s and was pleasantly surprised that I enjoyed all of the food I encountered! My first Indian meal was an onion rawa masala dosa…. Yumma! Once our tummies were happy, we ventured back to the hostel to shower and nap. We took the metro and the train (DAYUM CITY LIFE!) and our feet down to the tourism office to get more ideas for the week. We wandered into the market and I swear there was more fresh fruit and vegetables in that market than all of Botswana.

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onion rawa masala dosa – yumma!

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street food - dosas!

street dosas!

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Tuesday. Had the most delicious cheese and pineapple with a mix of Indian spices sandwich for breakfast and ventured downtown. We went to the Gateway of India, and then took a boat to Elephanta Island! The Gateway of India was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Mumbai in December 1911. In earlier times, it would have been the first structure that visitors arriving by boat in Mumbai would have seen. The Elephanta Caves are ancient Hindu caves located on Elephanta Island, otherwise known as the Island of Gharapuri. The rock-cut Elephanta Caves weere constructed about the mid-5th to 6th centuries AD. We had a delicious lunch of chicken biryani before exploring the caves. The island was BEAUTIFUL. And the caves were amazing. We separated into two groups, and miraculously found each other right before the boat and were able to enjoy a sunset on Chowpatti beach and delicious dinner on the beach all together.

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Gateway of India

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view from Elephanta Island!

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chicken biryani

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Chowpatti beach

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Wednesday. Another early morning for the drive to Matheran, which was about 300k outside Mumbai. Obviously we stopped for breakfast before our adventure. Aka paneer pakoda for breakfast because who doesn’t love cheese? After some serious haggling with the men on the trail and them only willing to speak with Keaton, we finally got ourselves on some horses to ride around Matheran! The views were absolutely incredible. After horsin’ around for a few hours, we explored the village of Matheran and got some lunch. We continued our adventure on Matheran on foot, and took the toy train down the mountain! Grabbed some delicious Indian food for dinner and headed back to the hostel for some beers with all of our new friends (did I mention how hard we goal 3’d?)

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Thursday. Rather than exploring all of the nature Mumbai has to offer, we decided to explore the city more! WE HAD BAGELS FOR BREAKFAST. They were delicious. First stop exploring the city was Dhobi Ghat, the largest outdoor laundry. We explored the markets and the city all day. And finished it off with another delicious meal before heading back to the hostel. We went out for drinks on Holi eve and found the celebrations had already started! The night before holi, the celebrations start with a Holika bonfire where people gather, sing and dance. As soon as we left the hostel we were greeted by a family and lots of small children celebrating.

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and the festivities have begun! happy holi eve!

Friday. Holi was one of my favorite days in my entire 23 years. It was truly one of the most amazing days I have ever had. I don’t even know how to write about it to explain it. Holi is a spring festival, also known as the festival of colors or the festival of love. The festival signifies the victory of good over evil, the arrival of spring, end of winter. The Hindus believe it is a time to enjoy spring’s abundant colors and saying farewell to winter. It is a festive day to meet others, to play and laugh, to forgive and forget. It is celebrated on the last full moon day of the lunar month Phalgun (February/March) Our new friend, Bunty, at the hostel told us to sleep in a bit (aka 8ish) and to join in the festivities at Juhu beach around 10. We left the hostel and couldn’t figure out what exactly wasn’t right until we realized… there were no cars. No buses. No people. No businesses or restuarants open. The only open breakfast spot we could find was McDonalds so naturally we ate an obsene amount of hash browns before Holi-ing. We hopped in a few tuk-tuk’s to make our way down to the beach. All week we had only been able to squeeze 3, and suddenly our driver says 5 since there is a front bench. Obviously we accept his offer. As we get closer to the beach with more people (including cops), we come to a sudden hault and the two extra girls get the boot out of the tuk-tuk and we look over to see the cops pointing and running after us. Were we in a low speed tuk-tuk with cops on foot chase in India? Yes, yes we were. We about died of laughter when we asked the driver and he confirmed this for us. When the threat had passed, we picked up the other girls and continued to the beach. So. Many. People. All week I was constantly amazed at the number of people in Mumbai. It was absolutely amazing. So many strangers with their hands all over your face with colors. Sneak attacks on unsuspecting groups of people. Photoshoots with anyone and everyone. Dodging color filled water balloons. Walking with our feet in the ocean. After leaving the beach, we were pulled into a holi rave of sorts with water and color and bubbles. After they got their photos with the crazy colorful white people, we got the boot and continued our journey around the city with colorful strangers all over. We got back to the hostel and weren’t allowed on the furniture til we changed (LOL). I wish I had taken a photo of the colors that were coming out of my face. And the colors that still won’t come out of my hair, skin and nails. We spent the evening with everyone in our hostel, and followed it up with a few beers at “The Big Nasty” which was not as big or nasty as it sounds.

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Saturday. Sadly no trip can happen without the occasional stomach problems. And early Saturday I was awoken with an angry stomach that continued for hours. Literally. Hours. I guess of all days to be stuck in bed, the last day is the best day. Getting on a plane was questionable. And then the car ride back. But I survive

Sunday. On our trip back with Sylvester, we drove through Baltimore, South Africa and saw giraffes! Not quite like my Baltimore! Katlo greeted me at the gate with her usual “MASAAAAAAAAAAA” and Bambino hung out in my house all evening since I was having Peo withdrawal.

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Until next time y’all. Ke a go rata.

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February 2015

For the shortest month of the year, February seemed to drag on! From the final two days of IST to waiting for things to feel normal again in the village, going back to Gabs for another training and being SO anxious for our trip to India.

In the weeks back at site between trainings, I spent a lot of time at the Primary school and library preschool. I am still trying to figure out exactly what my role is there and what they actually want me there for. I’ve been enjoying getting to know the kids, which will be helpful when I start working with them so they are already are comfortable with me.

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Valentine’s came and went. Lots of yummy food, wine and good friends. What more could a girl ask for?

The last week of February, I was able to be a part of the first cohort of CHT Peace Corps Volunteers to be trained in Supply Chain Management Systems. The SCMS training was facilitated by SCMS staff as well as 3 of our own PCV’s on the logistics management of healthcare commodoties including the standards of drug/commodity storage, procurement, and consumption. Now that we have been trained we will be able to return back to our clinics to capacity build to avoid overages, stockouts, and expired commodities. Not only did we receive this training, but we also were put up at the Grand Palm which was super nice! Air con, showers, wifi (good enough to facetime Finn!) and delicious food (CHINESE AND STEAK!!!!)

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SCMS CHT PCV’s, Program Manager and Facilitators!

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Hey, Pono!

BEEF BARON

SO POSH. SO DELICIOUS.

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The Grand Palm

February also marked our 6 months in Botswana! I literally cannot believe it’s been 6 months. Somedays I feel like I have been here foooooorever and other days I feel like I just hopped off the plane. Here’s to 19 more!

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January 2015: IST & back to reality

I have been having writer’s block. Or maybe bloggers block? Or maybe the heat is melting my brain cells. Or maybe I just don’t have much to write about. Either way, here we go. Most of January consisted of finishing my community assessment, counting down the days til IST, crying about leaving Peo for two weeks, and IST.

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I have been back in Rams for a solid 3 days now and IST is beginning to feel like one big blurry heat exhaustion fantasy. Not long after we got to site, we began counting down the days until IST – the end of “lockdown” and the beginnning of our Peace Corps service. IST is meant to follow up PST and our Community Assessment to come back together for more technical training since we now know the needs of our communities.

But what IST really was was a much needed mental health break. More often than not I have moments of “no one understands me!”, much like a hormonal teenager, where being the only American makes me the oddball out in my village all the time. But IST gave us an opportunity to come together and realize that we are not all alone, and that there are 71 other people in our cohort that understand all of the ups and downs the past 3 months at site has had.

As soon as we got to IST we turned the air con in our rooms down to 16C, not only did we take showers but we were able to control the temperature of the water, we had cuddle puddles, draft beers, margaritas, yummy food, spent time pool side, wifi and the super bowl! We were living the American dream…. you can see why it feels more like a heat stroke than real life.

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cuddle puddles for dayssssss

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“you guys look like vampires” SIMPLY ASIA GOODNESS

OHMYGOD ONION RINGS

OHMYGOD ONION RINGS

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view from Sky Lounge in Gabs

view from Sky Lounge in Gabs

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happy happy 24th birthday!

happy happy 24th birthday!

Windhoek drafts and margaritas aka HEAVEN

Windhoek drafts and margaritas aka HEAVEN

beard trimmings in the bath tub

beard trimmings in the bath tub

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I love cuddle puddles with these beautiful human beings

I love cuddle puddles with these beautiful human beings

I think the best part of IST, other than what I previously mentioned, is that I felt far more prepared and motivated to go back to site than I did originally at the end of PST. Being able to bounce ideas off of eachother, our PM (Program Manager), and Bots14’s was extremely useful.

I was excited to come back to Rams, and everyday it feels more like home. Since I was unable to stalk the Post Office for 2 weeks, obviously that was my first stop and I was lucky enough to have received 3 awesome care packages while I was away! But the real highlight of returning to Rams is being reunited with my sweet baby girl. I am so thankful to have made such a wonderful friend in the village to take care of my kitten while I’m away.

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This week I have started spending more of my time at the primary school, which I am really looking forward to. I have been working with the Guidance & Counseling teacher, who also teaches standard 3. And this weekend I am attending a teen club at the primary hospital in the next village over by the Baylor clinic!

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At the end of the month I am leaving for India for the Holi festival and I could not be more excited! Prior to leaving for India, we are making a pit stop in Joburg before our flight aka MCDONALDS! 6+ months of no greasy, all American McDonalds and there’s a good chance I will cry tears of joy. Stay tuned for a blogpost about it all!

Ke a go rata.